Product of the Month
Each month Disston spotlights a different product, including tips on getting the best possible performance. This month:
What is it: Disston’s superior collection of jig saw blades come in a full offering of bi-metal, carbon, high-speed steel and carbide grit blades. Boasting a tough cutting edge, these blades cut extremely abrasive materials without dulling, and are heat resistant. The precision ground teeth offer better life and performance.
Disston’s Jig Saw Blades feature a FIT-AL™ Shank, which takes the place of the standard U-Shank and T-Shank. The FIT-Al™ Shank eliminates the need to purchase multiple blades with different shank types to fit a variety of jig saws.
Bi-Metal Jig Saw Blades are made with cobalt for heavy-duty cutting in wood, metal, steel and stainless steel.- Variety of sizes and teeth per inch (TPI)
– Durable and long-lasting blades
– High strength steel cutting edge
– Fit-Al™ shank takes the place of U-shank and T-shank for ease of use
Carbon Jig Saw Blades are designed for general-purpose cutting in wood and metal.
– Variety of sizes and teeth per inch (TPI)
– Perfect for quick and accurate cutting
– Fit-Al™ shank takes the place of U-shank and T-shank for ease of use
High Speed Steel Jig Saw Blades are used for cutting in a variety of metals.
– Variety of sizes and teeth per inch (TPI)
– Provide a very clean and fast cut for most general purpose cutting
– Precision ground teeth for better life and performance
– Fit-Al™ shank takes the place of U-shank and T-shank for ease of use
Carbide Grit Jig Saw Blades are made from tungsten carbide particles bonded to alloy steel for cutting extremely abrasive materials and have greater wear resistance.
– 3 sizes: 2-7/8”, 3”, and 4”
– Available in fine, medium and coarse cutting blades as well as scroll or flush blades
– High heat and abrasion resistant
– No teeth to dull or chip
– Perfect for cutting materials other blades cannot
– Available in U-Shank and T-Shank
Tips for Getting the Best from Your Blades:
– The key to excellent results with a jigsaw is to match a specific blade to the type of material you’ll cut: wood, metal, plastics, tile, etc. For example, the larger the teeth, the more aggressive and rougher the cut. And the narrower the blade, the tighter the turns it can make. Narrow, double-sided blades are especially well suited for sharp turns because the teeth on the back side widen the kerf as you turn. The blade package will indicate what material the blade cuts best.
– Choose the right blade for wood cutting. Wider blades are best for making long, straight cuts, and narrow blades are better for cutting curves. Also, blades with larger and fewer teeth cut extremely fast but produce a rough, splintered surface. Blades with smaller teeth but more of them cut slower but leave but leave behind a smoother surface.
– The correct blade for metal cutting depends on the thickness of the metal. Hold the saw blade against the edge of the metal and confirm that at least three teeth will contact the edge. If not, choose a blade with more teeth per inch (TPI).
– Toothless carbide-grit blades are best for ceramic and tile cutting. For thin tile, apply water frequently to lubricate the saw cut. Thicker tile requires lubricating the saw cut with cutting oil. To minimize tile breakage during cutting clamp your tile down tightly and hold the saw firmly on the tile to control saw and blade vibration.
– The trick to getting a perfect straight freehand cut is to steer the saw along a clamped-down straightedge guide (which can be made from a steel square, a long level, a rip of plywood or a wood board). As you feed the blade into the cut, place one hand on the edge of the saw’s base plate and press in toward the straightedge guide. Advance the saw slowly with even pressure.
– For best results when cutting curves, first keep in mind that tighter curves require narrower blades. Also, don’t force the saw into the cut. You need to give the blade time to work. Concentrate on pushing the saw forward gently and pivoting your wrist to keep the saw on track, rather than pushing with your arm. Using your arm will flex the blade and lead to an edge that’s inconsistent and not perpendicular to the surface. For best results, cut just outside your layout line, and then sand to smooth the cut and achieve the exact curve you desire.
– Most jig saws offer oscillating action – while the blade moves up and down, it also lunges forward with each stroke. The higher the setting, the faster you cut. But faster isn’t always better. More oscillation means rougher, less accurate cuts. So turn the oscillation way down or off when you need clean or precise cuts or when you’re working with delicate materials like veneers. Turn the oscillating feature off when you’re cutting metal. Practice on a scrap to find the best setting for the material.
– If you need to cut out a hole in the center of the work surface, drill starter holes slightly bigger than your jigsaw blade in two opposite corners. That way, you can make four neat cuts starting from the two holes.
– Standard jig saw blades have teeth that point upward, and all jig saws cut on the up stroke. As a result, splintering occurs along the top surface of the material you’re cutting. You can avoid splintering the top surface by simply turning over the workpiece, placing the “good” side down. If turning the material over is not an option, you can also avoid splintering by using a reverse-tooth blade, which has downward-facing teeth that produce smooth, clean cuts on the top surface.
Get the Right Set of Saws
No well-stocked workspace is complete without a collection of versatile jig saw blades that can tackle any job. That’s why Disston offers specialty sets of blades perfect for the skilled professional or DIYer.
Shop our full line HERE or view our selection of sets HERE.
In the market for something more? Check out our 98 Piece Display Set for retailers HERE.
Sources include FamilyHandyMan.com, Popular Mechanics